Hitchhiking through Kosovo & Macedonia to industrial and grimy Niš in Serbia

Waking up in the morning was hard, with the prospect of hitchhiking across 3 countries and 2 border crossings that day not making things easier. The border crossing between Kosovo and Serbia, is complicated and had caused us enough problems already, so it was with a heavy heart that we acknowledged that we would have to go back to Macedonia in order to continue our journey north to Belgrade.

The journey started well enough, however, as our Couchsurfing host Bujar gave us a lift to the main road heading south back to Skopje, where after a slight issue with a man who kept muscling in on our hitchhike by talking to the drivers that we had stopped, we were picked up by a Macedonian man who drove us to the ring road surrounding the Macedonian capital. Our next ride was with a very nice Macedonian truck driver who had three daughters and bought us food, drink and cigarettes just out of kindness. He was really impressed by our trip and kept showing off the postcard that we gave him to all the border guards and other truck drivers we encountered. Our friendly driver drove us to the Serbian border, where we waited for a couple of hours for administrative things and then onwards to the turning for Niš, the largest city in southern Serbia.

Jon with our friendly truck driver Jerko on the way to Nis, Serbia

From here we thought we’d be fine. We were no more than 15 km from the city centre so all it would take was a single lift. So we waited, and waited, watching the sun slowly fall behind the distant hills. 30 minutes later and we were starting to get nervous. The light had nearly faded and cars flew by, with drivers and their grim expressionless faces showing not a flicker of recognition at our plight. Eventually two men in their work van stopped, and took us a little further down the road to a bus stop that would lead us directly to the city and we were saved.

Nishava River bank, Nis, Serbia

We found accommodation at Sweet Hostel for a reasonable 10€ each, a short walk from the central square. The hostel was simple but functional, with a handy little smoking room, meaning I didn’t have to traipse out and down every time I wanted to smoke. In the hostel we had a nice chat, over some cheap Serbian beers, with Mladen a fresh-faced security guard whose experience at work with Gypsies trying to steal things had left him a bit prejudiced. He was nice, if a bit young, but did have the strange believe that Europe had sent all the Gypsies to Serbia as some form of punishment for all the bad things that Serbia had done in the past.

The view from Sweet Hostel on a rainy day, Nis, Serbia

Niš itself is like much of what we had seen of Serbia, industrial and grimy. Historically the town had been of great importance due to its position along the Roman Via Militaris, but its decaying castle perhaps best stands as an embodiment of its current grandeur. We explored it on a rainy grey day, taking in the castle turned park and then the former Nazi Crveni Krst concentration camp from the outside as it was shut. We splashed down to the old town to find it was neither old nor pretty, found the one road with restaurants on and called it quits, deciding instead on Serbian watching. Serbians are a lot more stern than their Balkan cousins and we speculated that it was because they had been left with the ugliest part of the former Yugoslavia.

Square of King Alexander Unifier, Nis Serbia

Time was slipping through our fingers and our stay in Serbia would have to be brief. Our next stop Belgrade had a real end of the line feel as it would be the last destination we would be hitch-hiking to on our trip. Let’s hope that it makes a better impression than the grey concrete mass that is Niš.

Houses near the old Nazi concentration camp in Nis, Serbia

written by: Jon


Follow our 2 month hitch-hiking trip across the north of Italy and the Balkan Peninsula:‘The Balkan Peninsula by Thumb 2013′. It’s happening now!



The confident hitchhike from Albania to Macedonia and Ania’s Ohrid surprise Tanks to Berat in Albania, Visiting Berat Castle and Leaving before it was Time
Our first experience of hitch-hiking in Albania, camping wild and getting lost in the forest
Tanks to Berat in Albania, Visiting Berat Castle and Leaving before it was Time

About Hitch-Hikers Handbook

hitch-hiking, backpacking, budget travelling, travel writing, travel photography
Gallery | This entry was posted in *Photos*, Serbia, The Balkan Peninsula by Thumb 2013 and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

9 Responses to Hitchhiking through Kosovo & Macedonia to industrial and grimy Niš in Serbia

  1. Note to self, give Serbia a miss…it doesn’t sound inviting at all. Glad you are still sharing your adventure though.

  2. sarahep says:

    Ireally enjoyed reading this! You guys are having such an experience. I hitchhiked from Skopje to Belgrade in one day, and we got picked up my military working Macedonians who had just bought a new Audi, and managed to get a speeding ticket on the serbian border that managed to bring us back to Macedonia to pay the fine. It was a pretty hilarious situation to say the least, but they still took us all the way Serbia, a bit delayed of course.
    I can’t wait to read more of your adventures, be safe :)

  3. Pingback: The End of the Line in Belgrade, Serbia | Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

  4. - says:

    You must visit macedonia and its stunning surroundings!

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