Seville

Contents

1) Why visit Seville?
2) Seville: the facts
3) Seville Now!
4) Seville: Free Walking Tour
5) Seville: Sight & Monuments Guide
6) 14 Things to do for free in Seville
7) Accommodation
8) Going Out
9) Things to try and buy
10) Internet
11) Transport
12) Hitchhiking Out
13) Gallery

Basic information

Country: Spain
Autonomous community:
   Andalusia
Province: Seville
Population (2012):
….metropolitan:1,519,639
….city:702 355
Language: Spanish
Currency: Euro (€)

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Why visit Seville?

Sevilla, Spain (44) - Illuminated Torre del Oro, as seen from Paseo de Cristóbal Colón

Cultural centre and beating heart of Andalusia, Seville is the region’s largest city and is home to the quintessential Spanish experience of Tapas, Flamenco and Bullfighting. The city is a wonderful mix of Roman, Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque heritage, and is a treasure trove of winding alleys and sun kissed plazas. Many are drawn for the architecture, others for culture and everybody for the nightlife, as a bar on every corner is not enough to contain the good natured, lively crowd. The city’s annual feria is legendary and its Semana Santa (Holy Week) festivities are the best in the region. A must see if ever there was one but be warned Seville doesn’t come cheap with food and accommodation far more expensive than other cities in Andalusia.

Sevilla rating

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Seville: the facts

Seville is the capital and largest city of the autonomous community of Andalusia and the province of Seville and has a population of over 700,000. It is situated on a plain of the River Guadalquivir and is divided by the river into two halves: Sevilla and Triana.

Sevilla, Spain (49) - Puente de Isabel II as seen from Triana district

Mythically founded by Hercules, Seville dates back to the 8th century BC when it was initially populated by the indigenous pre-Roman Iberian people of Tartessos. After the Tartessos’ defeat by the Carthaginians the city eventually fell under Roman rule, after the 2nd Punic War, who renamed it Hispali. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, successive Germanic invaders ruled the city until the Visigoths grabbed control until the 8th century.

After a brief period of Christianisation, Seville was conquered by the Moors in 712 and was incorporated into Muslim al-Andalus. It was soon made the capital of the Umayyad Caliphate which was in turn followed by the Almoravid and Almohad dynasties. The influence of the Muslim dynasties is still very much evident in the look and feel of the city today. The most stunning example being the Alcázar of Seville, a royal palace originally designed as a Moorish fort.

Sevilla, Spain (16) - Inside Reales Alcázares de Sevilla - Patio de las Doncellas

When the Castillian conquest reached Seville in 1248, Christian rule was re-established and Seville became one of the most important cities in the now unified Spain. It often housed the Royal Court and became a great centre of learning. The city’s development gathered apace leading to its golden age in the 16th century, following Christopher Columbus’ expedition to the New World. The voyages, and the commerce that was to follow, helped make Seville rich which is evidenced by the fine Cathedral and Merchant’s exchange: Archivo General de Indias built during this period.

Sevilla, Spain (95) - The main façade of the Archivo General de Indias, taken on Av. de la Constitución

The inevitable economical decline came in the 17th century and was augmented by plague and floods leading to a drastic reduction in the city’s population. The arts continued to flourish however, as the city’s artists enjoyed a Baroque golden age of Sevillian painting.

In the 20th century Seville held the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, the buildings of which remain in the María Luisa Park, but the good times didn’t last forever as the city was swept up in Spanish Civil War. Despite its leftist tendencies on the outbreak of war, it fell quickly to Franco’s Nationalist and was to remain there for the duration of the war.

Sevilla, Spain (68) - View across Plaza de España with the pavilion building and Fuente de la Plaza de España clearly visible, taken Parque de María Luisa

After the return to democracy, Seville held Expo’92 which led to a great improvement in the local communications network infrastructure as public transport was improved, new rail connections built and new bridges constructed. At present, a Metro system is under construction which should have been finished in 2006 but is still under construction.

Seville has the 2nd hottest summer of any city on the European continent with average daily highs of 35°C. In summer average temperatures range from 20°C35°C. The winter’s are mild with average temperatures from 5°C – 16°C. On average there are 52 days of rain, 120.75 days of sun every year.

Seville climate graph

source: weatheronline.co.uk

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Seville Now!

Seville is the largest economy of Andalusia, accounting for ¼ of its total GDP. It is the engine of industry and finance for the south of Spain and its two universities are important research and development centres.

Sevilla, Spain (84) - Metropol Parasol with the tower of Iglesia de la Anunciación in the background, taken on Plaza de la Encarnación

The two most famous city festivals are the Semana Santa (Holy Week) and the Feria de Sevilla (Seville Fair), also known as Feria de Abril (April Fair). Seville’s Semana Santa processions are famous the world over for their solemnity and decoration and take place in the week leading up to Easter. The Feria de Sevilla is less religious and more fun and is typified by alcohol, conversation and dance. Men traditionally wear traje corto (short jacket, tight trousers and boots) and women trajes de flamenca (flamenco style dress).

Sevilla, Spain (79) - The brightly lit La Giralda and Catedral de Sevilla, Fuente de la Plaza de la Virgen and carriages, taken on Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes

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Seville: Free Walking Tour


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Seville: Sight & Monuments Guide

Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla
(Seville Museum of Fine Arts)

Monument Type: Art Gallery
Address: Plaza del Museo, 9
Website: http://www.museodebellasartesdesevilla.es/
Opening Times: 16 Sept – 31 May: Tues – Sat: 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Sun 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Mon closed 1 Jun – 15 Sept: Tues – Sat: 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Sun 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Mon closed
Price: General admission: 1.50 €, EU citizens: Free
Information: Housed in an early 17th century convent, Seville’s Museum of Fine Arts contains works dating from the Gothic period to the present day. There are works by classic Spanish artists such as El Greco, Pacheco, Velázquez and Alonso Cano as well as religious painting by renowned master Zurbarán.

Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija
(Palace of the Countess of Lebrija)

Monument Type: Palace
Address: Calle Cuna, 8
Website: http://www.palaciodelebrija.com/
Opening Times: Mon – Fri: 10.30 a.m – 7.30 p.m Sat: 10 a.m – 2 p.m & 4 p.m. – 6 p.m. Sun: 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Price: Ground Floor only 5 € Both Floors 8 €
Information: Constructed in the 15th century around the typical Andalusian courtyard design. The noble palace has undergone many transformations over the years, most notable when the Countess of Lebrija bought the property at the turn of the 20th century. The countess, who was a keen architect enthusiast, had installed over 580 square metres of authentic Roman floor mosaics from the then recently discovered Roman city of Italica. It remains the best collection of Roman floor mosaics in all of Spain.

Metropol Parasol

What is it? Interesting architecture and Mirador (Viewing platform)
Where is it? Plaza de la Encarnación. North of the cathedral in the northern reaches of the Casco Antiguo (old town)
Information: Metropol Parasol claims to be the largest wooden structure in the world and is the work of German designer Jürgen Mayer. Due to its unique design it is sometimes known as Las Setas de la Encarnación (Incarnación’s mushrooms). The mirador is open Sun – Thurs: 10 a.m. – 12 p.m. Fri & Sat: 10.30 a.m. – 1 a.m. Price: 1.35 €

Sevilla, Spain (84) - Metropol Parasol with the tower of Iglesia de la Anunciación in the background, taken on Plaza de la Encarnación

La Casa de Pilatos
(Pilate’s House)

Monument Type: Palace
Address: Plaza de Pilatos, 1
Website: http://www.fundacionmedinaceli.org/monumentos/pilatos/
Opening Times: Summer: 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. Winter: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Price: General admission: 8 € EU citizens: Free (Tues 1 p.m. – 5 p.m.)
Information: Built in the 15th century, this stunning Andalusian nobles’ palace is a mix of Spanish mudejar-Gothic and Italian Renaissance and Romantic styles. Striking features include the central courtyard ringed by the heads of Roman emperors and Spanish kings, and the series of Goya’s on a bullfight.

Museo del Baile Flamenco
(Flamenco Dance Museum)

Monument Type: Museum
Address: Calle de Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3
Website: http://www.flamencomuseum.com/
Opening Times: Nov – Mar: 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Apr – Oct: 9 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Price: Adults 10€ – Groups 8€ – Children 6€
Information: Set across four floors the Flamenco Dance Museum is a must for all those who are interested in the art form. There are also regular performances that come highly recommended

Iglesia del Salvador
(Church of the Saviour)

Monument Type: Church
Address: Plaza Salvador
Website: –
Opening Times: Mon – Sat: 10 a.m. – 1 p.m. & 5 p.m. – 9 p.m. Sun: 10:30 a.m. – 1.30 p.m.
Price: Free entry
Information: The recently refurbished Iglesia del Salvador was constructed in the 17th century on the site of the former main mosque of Seville. It is the 2nd largest religious structure in the city, after the Cathedral, and was built in the Baroque style. Notable features include the Mannerist façade, the minaret incorporated into the church structure and its cupola dome.

Ayuntamiento de Sevilla
(Seville City Hall)

Monument Type: Historical building
Address: Plaza Nueva, 1
Website: http://www.sevilla.org/
Opening Times: Mon, Wed, Fri: 5.30 p.m. – 6 p.m. Jun 6 p.m. – 6.30 p.m. Jul & Aug closed.
Arranged groups only (max. 25 personas)
Price: Free entry
Information: Built in the 16th century, Seville city hall is a unique building in many ways. Constructed in the Renaissance style, the building boasts both Plasteresque and Neo-classical façades, reflected the restoration work that it has undergone over the years. Today the building holds the city’s historical archives and is adorned with representations of classical figures such as Caesar and Hercules with notable rooms including the Apeadero, Sala de los Fieles Ejecutores, the Salón Colon, and the Sala Capitular,

Barrio de Santa Cruz
(Jewish District) 

What is it? Old Jewish neighbourhood
Where is it? The southern part of the old town, bordered by Calles Mateas Gago, Santa Maria La Blanca / San José, the Jardines de Murillo and the Alcázar
Information: The primary tourist neighbourhood of Seville, Santa Cruz contains many of the city’s oldest buildings and monuments. Originally inhabited by a large Jewish population; when religious persecution culminated in the expelling of the Jews in 1492, the area went into decline that was not arrested until the 18th century. The area is typified by narrow, labyrinth-like streets, hidden courtyards, a vast selection of bars and restaurants and the citric smell of orange tree lined streets.

Sevilla, Spain (86) - Typical Andalucian whitewashed buildings, taken in an alley in Barrio de Santa Cruz

Palacio Arzobispal
(Archbishop’s Palace)

Monument Type: Palace
Address: Plaza Virgen de los Reyes , s|nº
Website: http://www.archisevilla.org/visitas.php
Opening Times: 24 Nov: 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. 1 Dec: 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. 15 Dec 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. 12 Jan 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. 2 Feb: 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. 2 Mar: 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. 6 Apr: 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. 4 May: 11 a.m. – 1 p.m. 26 Apr (Festival San Isidoro): 4 p.m. – 8 p.m. 18 May (Day of the Museums): 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. 23 Jun (Festival San Juan): 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Price: Free Entry
Information: Home to the archbishop of Seville, the Archbishop’s Palace has served as a religious residence since the 13th century and sits directly opposite the Giralda tower. The modern palace was built in the Spanish baroque style but is adorned with two 16th century Mannerist design courtyards. Interesting features include the majestic central staircase, imposing main hall and the impressive collection of ‘Sevillian Baroque’, paintings and sculptures, including works from Francisco Pacheco, Zurburán, and Murillo among others. It is also notable for being the starting point of the Easter processions.

Hospital de los Venerables
(Hospital of the Venerable)

Monument Type: Historical building
Address: Plaza de los Venerables, 8
Website: http://focus.abengoa.es/
Opening Times: Everyday10 a.m. – 2 p.m. & 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.
Price: General admission: 5.50 €, Sun 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.: Free
Information: Built in 1675, in the Baroque style, as a residence for retired priests, the building is divided into two parts. In one area the residents’ quarters are set around a circular courtyard which is beautifully decorated with glazed tiles and topped with an ecliptic vault decorated in Baroque plasterwork. The rest of the building is a simple, single-nave church.

Catedral de Sevilla & La Giralda
(Seville Cathedral & Giralda Tower)

Monument Type: Cathedral
Address: Av de la Constitución, s/n
Website: http://www.catedraldesevilla.es/
Opening Times: Mon: 11 a.m. – 3.30 p.m. Tues – Sat: 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. Sun: 2:30 p.m. – 6 p.m. Summer (July & August)Mon9.30 a.m. – 2.30 p.m. Tues – Sat9.30 a.m. – 4 p.m. Sun: 2.30 p.m. – 6 p.m.
Price: General admission: 8 €, Sundays: Free
Information: The monstrous Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world. Construction began in 1401 on the site of a Moorish mosque and was finally finished in 1507 and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The cathedral contains the longest nave in Spain which rises to the eye-watering height of 37 metres. Sitting inside the cathedral is also the tomb of Christopher Columbus, whose coffin is held aloft by four figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain during Columbus’ epoch, Castille, Aragon, Navara and Leon.
The Giralda bell tower is one the iconic images of Seville and offers some of the best view across the city. Built in 1184 as part of the Great Mosque it was incorporated into the Cathedral design and was topped with a five storey bell tower in 1568. Today it stands at 93 m and is reached by ramp that was designed to allow to horseman abreast to climb.

Sevilla, Spain (79) - The brightly lit La Giralda and Catedral de Sevilla, Fuente de la Plaza de la Virgen and carriages, taken on Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes

El Real Alcázar de Sevilla
(The Alcázar of Seville)

Monument Type: Royal Palace Complex
Address: Patio de Banderas, s/n
Website: http://www.alcazarsevilla.org/
Opening Times: Oct – MarMon – Sun9.30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Apr – SeptMon – Sun: 9.30 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Price: General admission: 8,75 € Pensioners & Students: 2 €, Apr – Sept: Mon: 6 p.m. – 7 p.m. Oct – Mar: Mon: 4 p.m. – 5 p.m.: Free
Information: The Alcázar of Seville is the oldest royal palace in Europe, still in use, and is a riot of competing architectural styles. Built in the Mudéjar style in the 11th century the original palace was largely converted by the Christian King Alfonso XI into a Gothic one. Between 1364 and 1366 King Pedro oversaw the construction of a new Mudéjar palace, the Palacio de Don Pedro which is one the most stunning buildings in all of Spain. Highlights include the Ambassadors’ Hall which is beautifully decorated with plasterwork and tiles, the 16th-century coffered staircase adorned with paintings by Roelas and Madrazo and the many stunning patios and gardens.

Sevilla, Spain (16) - Inside Reales Alcázares de Sevilla - Patio de las Doncellas

Archivo General de Indias
(General Archive of the Indies)

Monument Type: Historical archives
Address: Av de la Constitución, s/n
Website: http://www.mcu.es/archivos/MC/AGI/index.html
Opening Times: 16 Sept – 15 JunMon – Fri: 8 a.m. – 3 p.m., 15 Jun – 16 SeptMon – Fri8 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Price: Free entry
Information: Located in the antique merchants’ exchange, the General Archive of the Indies contains extremely important historical documents pertaining to the Spanish empire in the Americas and the Philippines, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It total the archive contains over 80 million pages including priceless records such as Christopher Columbus’ diaries, the Bull of Demarcation Inter caetera marking the division of then new world between Portugal and Spain and official correspondence from the early conquistadors.

Sevilla, Spain (91) - Stairwell inside Archivo General de Indias

Plaza del Cabildo
(Cabildo square)

What is it? Town square
Where is it? In Arenal neighbourhood in the Old Town
Information: Designed by Joaquín Barquín y Barón this elegant semi-circular square is an oasis of calm in a hectic city. Attractive features include the arcade decorated with frescos and the refined marble columns. Every Sunday the square hosts a collectables market.

Torre del Oro
(Gold Tower)

Monument Type: Almohad military watchtower
Address: Paseo Cristóbal Colón, s/n.
Website: –
Opening Times: Mon – Fri9:30 a.m. – 6 p.m., Sat & Sun: 10:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Price: General admission: 3 €, Tuesday Free
Information: Constructed during the Almohad dynasty of the 13th century as a means of controlling access to the city from the Guadalquivir river, the watchtower has also been used as a prison and today is home to the Naval Museum.

Sevilla, Spain (46) - Toree del Oro and riverside plaza

Plaza de España
(Spain square)

What is it? Town Square
Where is it? Maria Luisa Park
Information: Built in 1928 in a semi-circular design, to host the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, the square is one of the best examples of the Renaissance Revival style in Spanish architecture. The main features are the centrally located fountain, the large palace and tiled alcoves representing each province of Spain. Today, the palace houses many administrative buildings and the square has been used as a film set, most notables for Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia.

Sevilla, Spain (75) - The illuminated North Tower and pavilion buildings on Plaza de España, taken in Parque de María Luisa

Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla
(Archaeological Museum of Seville)

Monument Type: Museum
Address: Plaza de América, s/n
Website: http://www.museosdeandalucia.es/culturaydeporte/museos/MASE/?lng=en
Opening Times: 16 Sept – 31 May: Tues – Sat: 10 a.m. – 8.30 p.m. Sun: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Mon: Closed, 1 Jun – 15 Sept: Tues – Sat: 9 a.m. – 3.30 p.m. Sun: 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Mon: Closed
Price: General admission: 1.50 €, EU citizens: Free
Information:  Housing a collection that spans from the pre-historic to the 15th century, the museums greatest treasures lie in the vast collection of Roman era artefacts including a vast collection of marble statues and a number of beautiful floor mosaics. The museum is located in another building built for the 1929 exposition with the façade a mixture of Baroque and Neoclassical styles.

Parque de María Luisa
(Maria Luisa Park)

What is it? City Park
Where is it?  Just south of the historic centre.
Information: Maria Lusia Park constitutes the principle green space in Seville and was gifted to the city by Infanta Luisa Fernanda, Duchess of Montpensier in 1893, the grounds having previously been the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo. The park’s current design was implemented by Aníbal Gonzalez for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 in the ‘Moorish paradisical style’ with a plethora of tiled fountains, pavilions, walls and ponds.

Triana

What is it? Neighbourhood and administrative district on the west bank of the Guadalquivir River
Where is it? Located on an almost-island between two branches of the Guadalquivir, to the west of the old town
Information: Triana neighbourhood has a long and proud history and the local trianeros consider it to be different in character to the rest of the city. Formerly the old gitano (gypsy) quarter, it is the spiritual home of Flamenco in Seville and is also typified by narrow winding alleys, although it is not as pretty as Santa Cruz its cousin across the river

Sevilla, Spain (49) - Puente de Isabel II as seen from Triana district
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Seville for Free

There’s no getting away from it, Seville is expensive but seeing the sights need not break the bank and with a little bit of planning, and some useful advice from your friends here at hitchhikershandbook you can leave the city having seen lots of sights and still with some money in your pocket.

1. The Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla (Seville Museum of Fine Arts) is one of the finest galleries in Europe and is free to EU citizens.

2. La Casa de Pilatos (Pilate’s House) is one of the most beautiful residences in Seville and is free on Tuesdays 1 p.m. – 5 p.m.

3. Parque de María Luisa (Maria Luisa Park) is the principal green area of the city and is a great place to shelter from the relentless Sevillian sun.

4. Iglesia del Salvador (Church of the Saviour) is the 2nd largest temple in the city and is free to enter.

5. Why not visits one Seville’s many markets, most notable in Triana, La Encarnación and Feria, and soak up the sights and sounds all without spending a penny. Markets are normally held Monday to Saturday 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.

6. The Ayuntamiento de Sevilla (Seville City Hall) contains several works of cultural and historical interest and is free to enter.

7. Barrio de Santa Cruz once formed the old Jewish District and is a maze of labrinyth like streets and is best enjoyed on foot. Four advise is use Calle Ximenez de Encis as a reference point and lose yourself in the side streets.

8. The Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace) is free to enter but the opening days and times are very specific so check out the information here. For those who do make it, a treat is in store as it is a stunning building.

9. The Hospital de los Venerables (Hospital of the Venerable) was built as a residence for reitred priests and contains many interesting architectural touches. It is free on Sundays 4 p.m. – 8 p.m.

10. Free Flamenco shows are indeed available but be warned, although entry may be free the drinks are at a premium and they are normal compulsory. La Carbonería is in almost all guidebook but aficionados have been known to complain about the quality. Peña Hípica El Búcaro holds performances on Fridays and Saturdays from 10:00 p.m. Anselma (Calle Pagés del Coro, 49) has free flamenco every night except Mondays. T de Triana (Calle Betis, 20) hosts free shows on Tuesday and Thursday nights around 10:30 p.m.

11. The Archivo General de Indias (General Archive of the Indies) is a UNESCO world heritage site and contains many extremely important historical artifacts, including Columbus’ diaries. It is free to enter.

Sevilla, Spain (95) - The main façade of the Archivo General de Indias, taken on Av. de la Constitución

12. Seville’s Festivals are the stuff of legend so if your visit co-insides then you’re in luck. The Feria de Abril (April Fair) is the largest annual fair in Andalusia, and involves a week long orgy of food, drink and flamenco. It costs nothing to just go out and about, soaking up the atmosphere during this time. Other big festivals to check out are The religious Semana Santa (Easter Week) is renowned for its processions. So, simply take to the streets and enjoy.

13. Torre del Oro (Gold Tower) was built by the Moors during the 13th century and is one of the most recognisable landmarks of the city. It is free on Tuesday afternoons.

Sevilla, Spain (48) - Torre del Oro and La Giralda prominent against  the night's sky

14. The Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla (Archaeological Museum of Seville) houses a collection that spans from the pre-historic to the 15th century including a vast number of Roman era artefacts. It is free to EU citizens.

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Accommodation

Finding accommodation in Seville is simple with a huge amount of hostels, hotels and the like to fit all budgets. However be aware that prices will increase during Easter week and in the Summer it is very busy, so, consider booking ahead. Below we list a few of the cheapest options, with budget travellers in mind.

Sevilla, Spain (96) - The southern lateral façade of the Catedral de Sevilla, with the walls of the Archivo General de Indias on the left

Feeling Sevilla Hostel (c/ Imaginero Castillo Lastrucci, 8) located a little out of the city and near the bus stations, Feeling Sevilla offers 6 – 12 bed dorms (13 – 14 €), 12 – 14 bed dorms (9.80 €) Double Private (22 €). Benefits include Wi-Fi, a terrace on which to relax and breakfast included.

La Caja Habitada (C/ Credito 20) located outside the city centre but with good connections to all transport links heading in and out of the city. Simple but effective La Caja Habitada offers dorms only (10 – 12 €).

Feetup Samay Hostel Sevilla (Av Menéndez Pelayo, 13) is centrally located and extremely popular with backpackers. Rooms include dorms (11 € – 20 €) and private rooms (20 € – 25 €) and there is Wi-Fi, free city maps and a roof terrace. Take note that during July & August the prices will be at the top end of the price scales.

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Going Out

Sevilla, Spain (55) - The waterfront, taken from Puente de Isabel II

Seville has one the best nocturnal scenes in Spain with people starting to fill the streets from 10 p.m. and not stopping until early the next morning. There is something for everybody from tapas to techno and with over 1000 registered bars and pubs you will never be left searching for something to do or somewhere to drink.

  • The areas around the Cathedral and Barrio de Santa Cruz are the heart of tourist Seville. There are numerous tapas bars but expect prices to be on the slightly higher side.

  • On the banks of the Guadalquivir, across the river from the old town in La Triana district lies Calle Betis. Running parallel to the river, the street is packed with bars and is very popular in the summer as people look to take advantage of the cooling breeze.

  • To the north of the centre the Alameda de Hércules, a long and wide boulevard lined with bars and smaller clubs, is the home of alternative Seville. In addition to the traditional bars, the area is also very popular as a ‘botellon’ (drinking alcohol on the streets) location. It is also the centre of the gay scene in the city.

  • To the north-east of the cathedral is Barrio de Alfalfa. Calle Pérez Galdós is particularly popular throughout the week and attracts a mixed crowd. During the summer the streets are packed with people milling from one bar to the next, and for those looking to take their drinking to the streets the Iglesia del Salvador and its surrounding squares are popular for a ‘botellon’.

  • To the west of the cathedral, covering the area from the river to Plaza Nueva is the district of El Arenal. There are numerous bars in the area especially concentrated around Calle Zaragoza.

  • Heading east from the city centre towards Nervión district there are a number of clubs and bars along and off Calle Luis Montoto. On the plazas in this area can also be found people have a botellon.

  • To the south-east of the centre the areas surrounding the business district, Viapol, and University campus are popular during the evenings with international students and post-work office workers.

  • For those in search of bassy music, the pavilions in Parque de María Luisa are used to host techno and electronic music parties that carry on throughout the night into the following morning.

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Things to try and buy

Sevilla, Spain (68) - View across Plaza de España with the pavilion building and Fuente de la Plaza de España clearly visible, taken Parque de María Luisa

Some local Sevillan specialities to try include: Gazpacho soup, Huevos a la Flamenca (fried egg in a tomato sauce), Cocido Andaluz (chick-pea and vegetable hotpot) and Rabo de Toro (bull’s tail ragout).

Each bar has its own tapas house-speciality but regular staples include Pinchos Morunos (spicy cuts of meat), Caracoles (snails in a creamy sauce) and Huevas (fish eggs in a vinaigrette sauce).

For those with a sweet tooth the Moorish influence can be seen in Torrijas and Llemas de San Leandro, two of the more traditional sweets.

The local beer is Cruzcampo but for non beer drinkers Tinto de Verano (a mix of red wine and lemon or orange soda) is a solid alternative.

As for shopping there are number of markets across the city in which to hunt for bargains. El Jueves , on Calle Feria, takes place on Thursday mornings and is a warren of goods (both legally and illegally procured). In Plaza del Museo there is an arts market and on Plaza del Cabildo there is a coin and stamp market, both take place on Sunday mornings.

If you are interested in Flamenco paraphernalia then Seville is the place for you with a multitude of places to buy dresses, fans, shawls etc.

Sevillian tiles are also famous worldwide, with the most authentic being picked up in the La Tirana district.

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Internet

Here a few places that offer WiFi connections:

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Transport

Seville airport is located 10 km north-west of the city and offers frequent domestic and international services with a focus on low cost airlines such as Ryanair and Vueling.

Santa Justa Train Station (Avenida Kansas City, S/N) is a 10-15 minute walk from the city centre and offers high-speed AVE trains to Cordoba, Málaga and Madrid as well as routes to other close-by cities including Cádiz, Huelva and Jaen.

Seville’s Metro opened in 2009 and follows a 18 km U-shaped track that runs from the south-west to the south-east through the southern end of the city centre. Tickets cost €1.30 (1 zone) or €4.50 (3 zones unlimited trips)

There are two bus stations in the city that cover different destinations. Estación de Autobuses Plaza de Armas services international and national destinations and the Province of Huelva while Estación de Autobuses Prado de San Sebastián hosts coach travel within Andalusia.

The local bus service is run by TUSSAM. Single tickets cost 1,40 € with multi-trip card options also available (6,40 € for 10 trips, 5 € unlimited 1 day, and €10 unlimited 3 days) and there are routes that span the whole city . Check out this useful interactive map with all the lines and stops clearly marked.

There is a single line, 5 stop tram system that runs between Plaza Nueva and San Bernardo but with plans to extend the line further. Tickets cost the same as the local buses.

Sevici is a community bike program modelled on similar systems in France. Temporary weekly membership is available to tourists for the price of 12,30 €

Seville is surrounding by the ring-road SE-30 which offers connections to the A-4 Autovía del Sur which runs north-east to Madrid and Córdoba and south to Cádiz. The A-92 Autovía de Andalucía heads west to Granada and Almeria. The A-49 goes west to Huelva and on to the Algarve in the south of Portugal.

Sevilla, Spain (44) - Illuminated Torre del Oro, as seen from Paseo de Cristóbal Colón

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Hitchhiking Out

West towards Huelva & Portugal

The entrance to the westbound A-49 is located to the west of the city, very close to the Plaza de Armas bus station. There are two alternatives for those wishing to hitchhike in this direction.

  1. From the bus station cross the bridge out of town and continue walking under the huge spaghetti junction following the A-49. After a short walk there is a roundabout from
    where you can try. Although be warned that traffic is light on the road and you could be in for a long wait.

  2. From Plaza de Armas bus station take the M161 heading to “Tomares”. After travelling along the motorway for a few minutes, it will leave the motorway and here you must alight. Return to the motorway, walk across the first roundabout and cross the bridge over the motorway. On the left will be an IKEA and straight ahead another, larger, roundabout. Keep heading straight and on the left will be a petrol station. Try here!

South towards Cádiz

tested by HitchHikersHandbook Take the train from Santa Justa Train Station to Dos Hermanas (about 10 mins). After leaving the train station, take the bus number 3 (green line) from the plaza opposite to Barriada Cuidad Blanca. From here it is a couple of minutes walk to the Ctra. Sevilla-Cádiz (N-IV). The traffic is quite fast moving but we managed to get a lift after around 30 min.

East towards Granada and Malaga

Take the bus 29 or 39 from the ‘Estación de Autobuses Prado de San Sebastián’. The bus will travel east along Av. Andalucía and after about 20 min you will see a red CEPSA petrol station, here leave the bus.

North-East towards Cordoba & Madrid

From the centre or from Santa Justa Train Station take bus 28 direction Parque Alcosa and get off after passing under the main ring-road SE-30. On the right hand side along Calle Tigris is a green BP garage. Try here!

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Gallery

Written byJon

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